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We spent two nights in Matsumoto to see the famous castle and the Yayoi Kusama collection at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art, and to hike a small portion of the Nakasendo Trail.

The Nakasendo trail connected Tokyo and Kyoto in the Edo Period. There were about 70 “post” towns where travelers could rest. Several are well preserved and offer a chance for visitors to walk part of the trail. The most popular walk is between Magome and Tsumago, but it is a little tricky and time consuming to get there. Another option is the route from Yabuhara to Narai, otherwise known as the Torii Pass walk. It is easier to access because the Chuo regional line stops in both towns. But it is more of a hike than a walk, with a ~1,100-foot elevation gain and then descent.

It takes some coordination of train schedules (hello, Navitime!), but there are options that allow a few hours for the hike. We chose to start in Yabuhara and end in Narai, which is beautifully preserved town. Coming in from the hike, you walk from one end of the town to the other.

We left Matsumoto at 12:23 pm (about 1:10 ride), and returned from Narai on a train departing at 3:57 pm. We finished the whole walk in about 2:10, but we move pretty fast.

It was fantastic. Very well marked, almost to a fault – almost impossible to get lost. There are bear bells in a few places along the way, so I suppose that is a possibility. It was a little wet in places from the rain over the weekend, but all in all not too bad. We passed fewer than 10 people on the trail, and the town of Narai was delightfully quiet when we arrived – empty in parts.

Hover over photos for captions.
Approaching Matsumoto CastleMatsumoto Castle, dating to 1594, is the oldest surviving castle tower in JapanIn certain lighting, the castle appears blueYes, you can go inside. There are historical exhibits inside, and some very steep and slippery stepsOne of the inside displaysView from the castle toward the AlpsThe castle has a large moatPhotos of the vermillion bridge in front of the castle are popularOld castle wallsThe whole city is a bit whimsicalLike hereThe other big attraction for us here is the Matsumoto City Museum of ArtThe museum features a permanent collection of Yayoi Kusama - no photos except in the pumpkin roomKusama has lived in the US for a long time but is from MatsumotoNot Kusama, but also in the museumEven the Coca-Cola machine gets into the actLast photo of the museumWe took the train an hour south to Yabuhara to walk a portion of the old Nakasendo trailThe trail is well marked with various signs

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